For my 20th year of designing, I want to open doors and discover new categories to push in a specific direction. Yet with every new creation I consider how I can develop my work whilst retaining my signature style, because for me it would be wrong to try to be who I am not, my customer would question the message and my ability to give her what she wants.
Revisiting thoughts of practicality, like with the Galaxy, questioning what women wear and why she chooses to wear that and not something else. You have to, in some ways, put yourself in the skin of the women, understand their unique attitude of thinking and you have to make it exciting for them, you have to play with them. The moment you work with emotion, you’re never wrong.”
- Roland Mouret
Echoing early memories in Provence, Roland Mouret’s Pre-Fall 2017 collection evokes a playful take on colour and texture.
Volume is established through playful kimono style jackets with oversized structured sleeves and bomber jackets made feminine with floral embroidered motifs. Classic trench coats are modernised in a waterproof techno canvas, with iridescent qualities emulating the waters of Avignon.
Taking influence from the lavender fields of Grasse, flowers remain a strong motif throughout; depicted in a fluid geometric silk twill print and raised with embroidery. The colours of the collection vary, from royal blue and claret to a softer, petal-like array of violet and blush.
Through his use of texture, Roland creates a dialogue between the 18th century decadence of brocade fil coupé and rustic prints. Skirt hems and sleeve cuffs are given movement with delicate lace trims, while contrasting hems and bindings create a subtle twist to block coloured dresses. Elsewhere lace is placed in between wool crepe panels, bringing a seductive sheerness to the offering, a nod to the traditional Provençal costume.
The collection mirrors the changing lines of the landscape, from handkerchief- hemmed dresses, asymmetric peplums and fluted ribbed knit skirts. Jumpsuits and tops with cascading fabric draped across the back are reminiscent of the traditional, loosely draped Fichu shawl.
The Mini Classico, the petite version of Roland’s unique bag with signature folds, is introduced for the season, appearing alongside stiletto heels in glossy textured patent leather and matt karung hide. The aesthetic throughout the collection sees prints, fabric and texture evolving together to accentuate the iconic silhouette Roland has perfected.
Shop the PW17 collection here