Roland Mouret takes us on a journey with his Autumn Winter 2016 collection from the streets of Chelsea to Paris’ Saint-Germain des Pres, combining the mystery of dark Victoriana with decadent Art Rock scene. Drawing inspiration from the strong visual style of the likes of Kate Bush and Stevie Nicks, whose eclectic approach to art and music moulded their unflinching aesthetic, the Autumn Winter collection is an expression of Mouret’s savior faire approach to the unknown.
Infusing an air of drama and a nod to la Rive Gauche to the collection, here he challenges the use of textures with sheer bonded mesh, velvet detailing, and hexagonal lace embroidery. Seductive, translucent tulle blouses with rich navy and bordeaux velvet floral appliques, ankle skimming skirts with crochet lace paneling, and high collared tops in lashings of burgundy reds, emerald greens and royal purple create depth against a predominately black and white colour palette. Mouret’s strong injection of knitwear in tops, dresses and skirts add complexity to the overall vision.
Mouret plays with the hemlines, alternating between mini, midi and introducing ankle-grazing lengths, as seen in capes, kick-flare trousers, and bias cut skirts. The presentation of curves in his draping technique adds a subtle sense of femininity through flowing lines bringing a softer edge, while sheer hexagonal embroidered separate lace sleeves usher in Victoriana to the 21st century.
Accessories compliment the offering, echoing a subtle splendor with lace up knee-high and ankle boots in deep hued suede, and bags adorned with stones and palatial snakeskin.