Drawing inspiration from the pink neorealism era of Italy’s Cinecittà, referred to as ‘Hollywood on the Tiber,’ Roland Mouret’s Resort 2016 collection transcends his vision to the golden age of Italian cinema in the late 1940s and early 1950s. A predominantly monochromatic colour palette with splashes of dusk pink, mint green, and ocean blue on asymmetric midi-length skirts and halter necklines emphasize ‘50s Italian glamour, while straight cropped trousers and flowing jumpsuits give a modern and sporty air to the collection, perfectly positioned on the Italian Riviera.
Through the use of longer hemlines, fuller skirts, and décolletage bearing necklines in diamond cut silk organzas, cotton daisy fil coupés, and textured bubble cottons, vintage silhouettes find balance with contemporary fabrics. Retro bell basque jackets are reinforced with neoprene lining and offset by modern bomber-style mesh lined collars. Mouret expands his knitwear offering this season with use of lightweight and sheer viscose to create tops, calf-grazing skirts, and dresses accented by mesh piping and frayed trims.
Mouret introduces pleating – a method inspired by the work of Spanish-born Italian-based Mariano Fortuny – to one-shouldered asymmetric tops, dresses, and skirts in black and white bring three-dimensional depth to his signature shapes. Floral motifs are a recurring narrative throughout the collection, as seen in abstract, graphic, and literal form, reminiscent of the playfulness and lightheartedness of post-WWII Italian motion pictures.
Leather accessories complement the offering as diamond embossed signature Classico bags echo the diamond cut outs found within the collection in bursts of mint green, dusk pink, and tobacco brown. Mouret reinterprets the knotted belt of his iconic Galaxy dress into the strap of the Brick bag, while peach pumps in python and dove gray strapped sandals enhance the femininity of the collection to complete the Resort wardrobe of the Roland Mouret woman.
View the collection in its entirety here